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Tajarin al tartufo bianco

Piedmont · No.41 / 103

Tajarin al tartufo bianco

Tajarin al tartufo bianco, 1 way

Tajarin, an extremely thin fresh egg pasta made with a high proportion of egg yolks, is tossed with nothing but melted butter and topped with shaved white truffle. Unlike the four dry-pasta dishes, the forks here are the dough's own yolk ratio and the thickness of the hand-cut noodle itself.

Italia Squisita
90 min · Difficulty ●●●●○ · 1videos

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Italia SquisitaItalian food media channel featuring Michelin-starred and well-known chefs Partly unverified

Semolina-blend dough, reconstructed with broth and salt-cured yolk

  • Blends semolina with 00 flour and uses an exceptionally high yolk ratio: 680g yolks plus 8 whole eggs
  • Separately prepares a "truffle butter" from 500g butter and 30g white truffle
  • Adds a beef-and-Marsala broth, an element absent from the traditional butter-only preparation
  • A reconstructed finish adding a salt-cured yolk (75g salt, 35g sugar, 4 yolks) and dried porcini
  • In the same video series this is contrasted with a traditionalist tajarin from Langhe home cook Gemma Boeri (only Crippa's version is covered in this data)
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In the chef’s words
  • ItaliaSquisita describes Crippa's tajarin as reflecting his philosophy: "deep respect for the exceptional ingredients of the Alba region and the influences of Eastern thought and cuisine" (original: "I tagliolini di Crippa rispecchiano la sua filosofia, caratterizzata dal profondo rispetto per le straordinarie materie del territorio di Alba e gli influssi del pensiero e della cucina orientale"). source

References: [1] [2] [3]

Compared on 9 axes

Figures are transcribed as written in each video or recipe page

Only one school is on file for this dish so far. With nothing to compare it against, this is a single record rather than a comparison. More will appear here as they are found.

AXIS Italia Squisita
Dough ratio, cut, and portion Semolina 900g + 00 flour 1.1kg + egg yolks 680g + 8 whole eggs (serves 8). Thickness and cut not specified
Salt in the pasta water Not specified
Butter handling Truffle butter made from 500g butter + 30g white truffle
Cheese: whether used Not specified in the source (a traditional tajarin often has no cheese)
Tossing and thickening method Method not described (ingredient table only)
White truffle handling White truffle shaved to finish; amount and shaving method not specified
Distinctive extra element Adds a beef-and-Marsala broth, a salt-cured yolk (75g salt, 35g sugar, 4 egg yolks, 175g bean puree), and dried porcini
Finish and plating Plated with white truffle, dried porcini, and salt-cured yolk
Time Not specified (presumably substantial given it's a restaurant preparation for 8, but no figure is given)
Source check Partly unverified
Italia Squisita Semolina-blend dough, reconstructed with broth and salt-cured yolk
Dough ratio, cut, and portion
Semolina 900g + 00 flour 1.1kg + egg yolks 680g + 8 whole eggs (serves 8). Thickness and cut not specified
Salt in the pasta water
Not specified
Butter handling
Truffle butter made from 500g butter + 30g white truffle
Cheese: whether used
Not specified in the source (a traditional tajarin often has no cheese)
Tossing and thickening method
Method not described (ingredient table only)
White truffle handling
White truffle shaved to finish; amount and shaving method not specified
Distinctive extra element
Adds a beef-and-Marsala broth, a salt-cured yolk (75g salt, 35g sugar, 4 egg yolks, 175g bean puree), and dried porcini
Finish and plating
Plated with white truffle, dried porcini, and salt-cured yolk
Time
Not specified (presumably substantial given it's a restaurant preparation for 8, but no figure is given)
Source
Partly unverified

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1 Pasta & boiling Brand, thickness, salt, water volume, cooking time
2 Base Fat and the main ingredient: rendering, infusing
3 Sauce & emulsion Where you toss, heat level, how much pasta water
4 Finish Cheese, pepper, finishing oil, plating

The map of schools: where the heat is managed

For Tajarin al tartufo bianco, the fork in the road is how you emulsify and heat

Toss over direct heat

The pan stays on the flame and your hands manage the temperature. Fast, but it takes feel.

  • No styles here

Indirect heat

Bain-marie, steam, double boiler or a hand blender. Repeatable, at the cost of one extra step.

  • No styles here

Off the heat

Emulsify after killing the flame, or in a bowl with only the pasta’s residual heat. Hard to get wrong.

What to serve after this

In an Italian meal the primo (pasta) is followed by a secondo (main course)

Lombardy 150 min

Ossobuco alla milanese

Ossobuco alla milanese

A dish of milk-fed veal shank sliced crosswise on the bone, braised in white wine and broth with the marrow-filled hole (osso = bone, buco = hole) left visible. Finishing with gremolata, a mince of lemon zest, garlic and parsley chopped very fine, is the defining requirement of the Milanese version, cutting through the richness of the braise with aroma and acidity.

Pairs with: Pasta al Limone / Tajarin al tartufo bianco / Bigoli in salsa

Egg pasta with butter from neighboring Piedmont. Both dishes share "a northern Italian festive table built on broth and butter," matching ossobuco in status and region as a primo.

Piedmont 90 min

Vitello tonnato

Vitello tonnato

Thin slices of chilled veal are topped with a sauce built on tuna, anchovy and capers. It's served both as an antipasto and as a secondo. The name originally meant "veal prepared as if it were tuna," and tuna itself is not believed to have been part of the dish until the late 19th century; the mayonnaise-based version now common spread in the 20th century.

Pairs with: Tajarin al tartufo bianco / Pasta al Limone / Pesto alla Genovese

A match of place. Both tajarin and vitello tonnato are Piedmontese dishes, and pairing them as primo and secondo from the same region is the local pattern for a menu.

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