Rome & Lazio
Pasta alla gricia
Pasta alla gricia, 4 ways
Just guanciale, pecorino, and black pepper. It's considered the 'ur-dish' behind carbonara minus the egg and amatriciana minus the tomato, and schools diverge over whether the emulsion is built directly over the flame or in a bain-marie, and how much pasta water is worked in.
Official videos by Tomomi Ogura
A representative video and official arrangements with different ingredients or pasta. Check the original videos for the method.
Michelin One-Star Italian Restaurant's "Fava Bean Gricia-Style Spaghetti" [Italian Professional Training Course vol.71]
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Roman style built on a splash of white wine
- The only one of the three major Roman styles (alongside carbonara and cacio e pepe) that adds a splash of dry white wine
- Strongly specifies the ingredient: "not pancetta, not bacon — it has to be guanciale"
- Adds the pecorino in three additions rather than one, tossing after each
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In the chef’s words
- Do not use pancetta nor bacon. It has to be guanciale. source
References: [1]
A small pot of concentrated pasta water maximizes starch
- Renders the guanciale from cold water over medium heat, a distinctive prep step that draws out fat before it can scorch
- Cooks the pasta in a small pot with a shallow amount of water to raise the starch concentration of the pasta water, a consistent hallmark of his more scientific approach
- States the ideal temperature range for adding the cheese (65-71°C) and explains why the heat must be off
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In the chef’s words
- Reserve and set aside at least 2 cups (475ml) pasta water... Set the pan over high heat and add 1/2 cup (120ml) of the reserved pasta water. Toss and stir constantly as the liquid reduces into a glossy sauce. source
References: [1]
Source is a recipe page (no video)
Pasta GrammarA husband-and-wife channel: Eva, from Calabria, Italy, and Harper, from the US Source verified
Cacio e pepe-style bowl emulsion
- Describes gricia both as "carbonara with the eggs omitted" and as "cacio e pepe with guanciale added"
- Builds the sauce using the same method as cacio e pepe: pecorino and pasta water creamed together first
- Takes the pasta off the heat and rests it for a minute before combining with the cheese, to prevent separation
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In the chef’s words
- it can either be thought of as a carbonara with eggs omitted or as a cacio e pepe with guanciale (cured pork jowl) added source
References: [1]
Vincenzo's PlateItalian-born, Sydney-based YouTube channel Source verified
A two-stage finish using steam from the pasta pot
- Toasts black pepper alone in the pan for a minute to bring out its aroma before cooking the guanciale
- States explicitly that the guanciale is used in full, rind and fat included
- A two-stage emulsion: setting the pan with the rendered fat on top of the still-hot pasta pot, using the pot's steam as indirect heat to keep the temperature gentle while tossing
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In the chef’s words
- Put the large pot back on the stove, and your pan on top of the pot source
References: [1]
Compared on 11 axes
Figures are transcribed as written in each video or recipe page
| AXIS | Max Mariola | J. Kenji López-Alt | Pasta Grammar | Vincenzo's Plate |
|---|---|---|---|---|
| Pasta, amount, and cooking | Spaghetti (12.5g protein/100g or higher), serves 2 | 227g bronze-die pasta (rigatoni, spaghetti, bucatini, or tonnarelli), serves 2 | 185g ridged tube pasta such as rigatoni, serves 2 | 250g mezze maniche (rigatoni or spaghetti also work), serves 2 |
| Salt in the cooking water | Not specified | Light | Well-salted water | 1 tbsp rock salt |
| Water volume and starch concentration | Not specified | About 4cm deep in a small pot, kept minimal to raise starch concentration | Not specified | Not specified |
| How the guanciale is cut and rendered | 200g guanciale, cut into 0.5cm strips, rendered dry in its own fat with no added oil | 85g guanciale, cut into 1.3cm pieces, rendered over medium heat starting from 2 tbsp water, about 7 minutes | 100g guanciale, small dice, cooked slowly over medium-low heat | 150g guanciale, rind and fat included, all of it used, cut into strips |
| Wine and acidity | Dry white wine, less than half a glass | None | None | None |
| Cheese (type, amount, timing) | Fresh pecorino romano, shaved very thin, added in three additions | 57g pecorino romano, three-quarters added off the heat, remaining quarter added at the end | 70g pecorino romano, made into a cream with pasta water before tossing | 150g pecorino romano, mixed with black pepper first, then loosened with pasta water into a cream |
| Method of emulsification | Over direct heat; pasta water and cheese are combined after the heat is turned off | Pasta water boiled hard over high heat to emulsify; cheese added off the heat | Pasta water and cheese combined into a cream in a bowl first, cacio e pepe style | Pan set on top of the still-hot pot; indirect steam heat keeps it at a gentle simmer while emulsifying |
| Heat level | High heat to render the guanciale; finished with the heat off | Medium heat for the guanciale, high heat to emulsify, cheese added with the heat off | Medium-low for the guanciale, finished off the heat with a 1-minute rest | Medium heat to cook the guanciale; the finish uses low heat via the pot's steam |
| Black pepper | Generous black pepper for a mottled speckle | 1 tsp coarsely ground, bloomed in the fat first, plus more added at the end | Black pepper | Toasted alone in the pan for 1 minute before cooking; more added at the end |
| Finish | Plated with the black pepper emphasized | Remaining pecorino and black pepper added | Rested 1 minute, then tossed with pepper and cheese cream | Reserved crisp guanciale scattered on at the very end |
| Time required | Not specified | Not specified | 20 minutes | Not specified |
| Source check | Partly unverified | Source verified | Source verified | Source verified |
Max Mariola Roman style built on a splash of white wine
- Pasta, amount, and cooking
- Spaghetti (12.5g protein/100g or higher), serves 2
- Salt in the cooking water
- Not specified
- Water volume and starch concentration
- Not specified
- How the guanciale is cut and rendered
- 200g guanciale, cut into 0.5cm strips, rendered dry in its own fat with no added oil
- Wine and acidity
- Dry white wine, less than half a glass
- Cheese (type, amount, timing)
- Fresh pecorino romano, shaved very thin, added in three additions
- Method of emulsification
- Over direct heat; pasta water and cheese are combined after the heat is turned off
- Heat level
- High heat to render the guanciale; finished with the heat off
- Black pepper
- Generous black pepper for a mottled speckle
- Finish
- Plated with the black pepper emphasized
- Time required
- Not specified
- Source
- Partly unverified
J. Kenji López-Alt A small pot of concentrated pasta water maximizes starch
- Pasta, amount, and cooking
- 227g bronze-die pasta (rigatoni, spaghetti, bucatini, or tonnarelli), serves 2
- Salt in the cooking water
- Light
- Water volume and starch concentration
- About 4cm deep in a small pot, kept minimal to raise starch concentration
- How the guanciale is cut and rendered
- 85g guanciale, cut into 1.3cm pieces, rendered over medium heat starting from 2 tbsp water, about 7 minutes
- Wine and acidity
- None
- Cheese (type, amount, timing)
- 57g pecorino romano, three-quarters added off the heat, remaining quarter added at the end
- Method of emulsification
- Pasta water boiled hard over high heat to emulsify; cheese added off the heat
- Heat level
- Medium heat for the guanciale, high heat to emulsify, cheese added with the heat off
- Black pepper
- 1 tsp coarsely ground, bloomed in the fat first, plus more added at the end
- Finish
- Remaining pecorino and black pepper added
- Time required
- Not specified
- Source
- Source verified
Pasta Grammar Cacio e pepe-style bowl emulsion
- Pasta, amount, and cooking
- 185g ridged tube pasta such as rigatoni, serves 2
- Salt in the cooking water
- Well-salted water
- Water volume and starch concentration
- Not specified
- How the guanciale is cut and rendered
- 100g guanciale, small dice, cooked slowly over medium-low heat
- Wine and acidity
- None
- Cheese (type, amount, timing)
- 70g pecorino romano, made into a cream with pasta water before tossing
- Method of emulsification
- Pasta water and cheese combined into a cream in a bowl first, cacio e pepe style
- Heat level
- Medium-low for the guanciale, finished off the heat with a 1-minute rest
- Black pepper
- Black pepper
- Finish
- Rested 1 minute, then tossed with pepper and cheese cream
- Time required
- 20 minutes
- Source
- Source verified
Vincenzo's Plate A two-stage finish using steam from the pasta pot
- Pasta, amount, and cooking
- 250g mezze maniche (rigatoni or spaghetti also work), serves 2
- Salt in the cooking water
- 1 tbsp rock salt
- Water volume and starch concentration
- Not specified
- How the guanciale is cut and rendered
- 150g guanciale, rind and fat included, all of it used, cut into strips
- Wine and acidity
- None
- Cheese (type, amount, timing)
- 150g pecorino romano, mixed with black pepper first, then loosened with pasta water into a cream
- Method of emulsification
- Pan set on top of the still-hot pot; indirect steam heat keeps it at a gentle simmer while emulsifying
- Heat level
- Medium heat to cook the guanciale; the finish uses low heat via the pot's steam
- Black pepper
- Toasted alone in the pan for 1 minute before cooking; more added at the end
- Finish
- Reserved crisp guanciale scattered on at the very end
- Time required
- Not specified
- Source
- Source verified
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1 
Pasta & boiling Brand, thickness, salt, water volume, cooking time
Pasta & boiling Brand, thickness, salt, water volume, cooking time 2 Base Fat and the main ingredient: rendering, infusing
3 
Sauce & emulsion Where you toss, heat level, how much pasta water
Sauce & emulsion Where you toss, heat level, how much pasta water 4 
Finish Cheese, pepper, finishing oil, plating
Finish Cheese, pepper, finishing oil, plating The map of schools: where the heat is managed
For Pasta alla gricia, the fork in the road is how you emulsify and heat
Toss over direct heat
The pan stays on the flame and your hands manage the temperature. Fast, but it takes feel.
Indirect heat
Bain-marie, steam, double boiler or a hand blender. Repeatable, at the cost of one extra step.
Off the heat
Emulsify after killing the flame, or in a bowl with only the pasta’s residual heat. Hard to get wrong.
What to serve after this
In an Italian meal the primo (pasta) is followed by a secondo (main course)
Pollo alla cacciatora
Pollo alla cacciatora
Chicken pieces are browned in olive oil, then slowly braised with aromatic vegetables, wine and tomato. The name, meaning "hunter's style," is said to come from a stew hearty enough to fill a hunter waiting for game; tomato was not originally part of it and was added later. Northern versions tend to use white wine, southern versions red.
Pairs with: Pasta al Limone / Pasta alla gricia / Pesto alla trapanese
Putting the tomato-free, dry-flavored gricia first means its taste doesn't overlap with the cacciatora's tomato that follows, and the order of weight is never reversed.
Saltimbocca alla romana
Saltimbocca alla romana
Thin-pounded veal is layered with sage and prosciutto, pinned with a toothpick, and sauteed in butter. The name means "jumps in the mouth" (salta in bocca). The salt of the prosciutto and the aroma of the sage make up for the veal's blandness, and the key is not to overcook the prosciutto side.
Pairs with: Pasta alla gricia / Cacio e pepe / Spaghetti alle vongole
The same Roman menu. A humble primo of just guanciale and pecorino leads straight into a secondo of prosciutto and butter, tied together by place.
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