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Pesto alla Genovese

Liguria · No.04 / 103

Pesto alla Genovese

Pesto alla Genovese, 8 ways

An uncooked sauce made by crushing fresh basil, pine nuts, cheese, garlic, and olive oil in a mortar or a blender. The key divides are mortar versus machine, and the ratio of cheese to nuts.

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Parmigiano only, no mortar, quick method

  • A distinctive order: garlic and oil blended together first, then pine nuts, then basil, then cheese
  • A simplified version using only Parmigiano, no pecorino
  • Repeated emphasis on never cooking the pesto - always tossed in a bowl or pan off the heat
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In the chef’s words
  • Avoid cooking fresh basil pesto over direct heat because high temperatures can affect its colour and delicate flavour. Place the pesto in a bowl or pan away from the heat, then add the cooked pasta with a splash of pasta water and toss everything together. source

References: [1]

Mortar-and-pestle only: garlic, then pine nuts, then basil

  • Strongly recommends the mortar and pestle; the food processor is called a last resort because it "overheats and cooks" the ingredients
  • Strictly follows the order garlic, then pine nuts, then basil, then cheese, then oil
  • Tunes the parboil time for the vegetables (potato, green beans) to the pasta's cook time - 3 or 4 minutes
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In the chef’s words
  • While it may be tempting to use a blender or food processor for convenience, it is not advised as it will overheat and cook the ingredients, altering the taste of the final product. source

References: [1] [2]

The orthodox ratio, from the World Pesto Championship organizer

  • The recipe is credited to Roberto Panizza, owner of the restaurant Il Genovese and the company Pesto Rossi, and named in the source as one of the organizers of Genoa's World Pesto Championship
  • A two-cheese blend combining Parmigiano with Sardinian pecorino (Fiore Sardo)
  • Explicitly instructs removing the garlic's "germ" before use
  • Repeated emphasis that the pesto must "never" be cooked
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In the chef’s words
  • Roberto Panizza is the owner of the restaurant Il Genovese and the company Pesto Rossi, which since 1947 has been carrying on the tradition of protected designation of origin pesto alla genovese. source

References: [1]

Cold bowl: oil, then pine nuts, then basil

  • A distinctive technique of boiling the garlic alongside the pasta to soften it rather than crushing it in a mortar
  • Blends oil and pine nuts in a chilled bowl first, then "marinates" the basil into it rather than fully pureeing it
  • An adjustable recipe that adds Grana Padano to taste rather than a fixed amount
  • A Japanese-leaning twist that adds okra and boiled octopus
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In the chef’s words
  • EVOO (double the volume of the basil), roasted pine nuts 15g, and a pinch of salt are put in a chilled bowl and blended to form the base. source

References: [1]

RyujiRecipe developer Partly unverified

Shiso substitute, with bacon and potato

  • Skips basil entirely, substituting shiso - a Japanese home-cook adaptation that keeps the "genovese" name for an otherwise different dish
  • Fully replaces the traditional ingredients: ground sesame for pine nuts, cheddar for the cheese
  • Adds bacon and potato as solid ingredients to what is traditionally a paste-only sauce
  • 8 shakes of MSG to boost umami - a signature move of this test-driven recipe style
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In the chef’s words
  • 20 shiso leaves, 10g grated garlic, 4 tablespoons ground sesame, 3 tablespoons olive oil, 40g cheddar cheese, 2 pinches of salt, and 1 tablespoon water are blended in a Bun Bun Chopper. source

References: [1]

Loose measuring, Parmesan-only simplicity

  • Explicitly states measurements need not be exact, treating even toasting the pine nuts as optional
  • Uses Parmesan alone, no pecorino
  • The description even covers storage: keep in a jar under a layer of oil, refrigerated for up to 4 days
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In the chef’s words
  • For the pesto, crush a few cloves of garlic with a big pinch of kosher salt in the bowl of mortar and pestle. Add a quarter cup of pinenuts (they do not need to be toasted, but you can if you'd like) and crush. source

References: [1]

Source is a recipe page (no video)

The tested two-cheese ratio

  • Settled on a 1:1 ratio of Parmigiano to Fiore Sardo after "rounds and rounds of testing"
  • States explicitly that if using a food processor, the order should be changed to garlic-salt-pine nuts, then cheese, then basil
  • Documents washing the basil and using it still damp, plus salt used explicitly as an "abrasive" during grinding
  • The same article pits mortar against food processor and concludes the mortar "coats the pasta more beautifully"
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In the chef’s words
  • On pasta, the differences really become clear. The mortar and pestle pesto coated the noodles beautifully, bathing them in a gorgeous green-tinted sauce. The food processor pesto just stuck to the pasta in little bits, like glitter, and the oil had absorbed little of the basil's color. source

References: [1]

One food processor pass, a choice of three nuts

  • The only variant here that explicitly allows swapping pine nuts for almonds or macadamia nuts
  • Puts raw, un-prepped, un-boiled garlic straight into the food processor
  • A one-step recipe that blends everything at once, unlike either the mortar method or the staged-addition method
  • Black pepper (1/4 tsp) is worked into the sauce itself rather than finished on top
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In the chef’s words
  • In a food processor, combine all ingredients and blend until the pesto looks like a coarse paste. source

References: [1]

Compared on 8 axes

Figures are transcribed as written in each video or recipe page

AXIS Vincenzo's Plate Pasta Grammar GialloZafferano Fabio Ryuji J. Kenji López-Alt Serious Eats (Daniel Gritzer) Chef Jean-Pierre
Amount and handling of basil 60g (a large bunch)1oz (30g), added a little at a time in the mortar70g (Basilico Genovese DOP recommended)1 pack (the kind sold at a supermarket)Not used (substituted with 20 shiso leaves)A few cups, added a handful at a time85g (3oz), washed and left damp, about 4 cups2 cups tightly packed (a few leaves reserved for garnish)
Pine nuts or substitute nuts Pine nuts 10g (0.4oz)Pine nuts 10g (1 tbsp)Pine nuts 30g (1oz)Pine nuts 15g (roasted)Not used (substituted with 4 tbsp ground sesame)Pine nuts 1/4 cup (toasting optional)Pine nuts about 30g (2 tbsp)Blanched almonds 1/2 cup (pine nuts or macadamia nuts also acceptable)
Amount and preparation of garlic 1 clove3 cloves (chopped)2 cloves (germ removed, halved)1/4 clove (boiled alongside the pasta to soften, then mashed in)Grated garlic 5-10gA few cloves (no exact count given)2 medium cloves (10g)6 cloves (peeled and chopped, no other prep)
Cheese type and ratio Parmigiano Reggiano 3 tbsp (1.05oz) onlyParmigiano Reggiano 40g (1.5oz) onlyParmigiano 50g + pecorino (Fiore Sardo) 30g, roughly a 5:3 ratioGrana Padano, added to taste (no fixed amount)Cheddar cheese 40g (mixed cheese blend acceptable)Parmesan 1oz, no pecorino usedParmigiano 21g + pecorino Fiore Sardo 21g, a 1:1 ratioParmigiano Reggiano 1/2 cup only
Amount of olive oil EVOO, 5-6 tbsp total (3-4 in the base + 2 to finish)EVOO 30g (2 tbsp)EVOO 70g (1/3 cup)EVOO = double the basil's volume, plus more to finishOlive oil 3 tbsp plus more to finishEVOO 1/2 cupMild EVOO 175ml (3/4 cup)EVOO 1 cup
Mortar or machine Blender (no mortar)Mortar and pestle required; food processor only as a last resort (blade and bowl frozen)Marble mortar and wooden pestle (a food processor on pulse can substitute)Chilled bowl and blenderBun Bun Chopper (a food-processor-type appliance)Mortar and pestle (a 2-cup-plus capacity recommended)Marble mortar and wooden pestle (if using a food processor, switch the order to garlic-cheese-basil)Food processor only, no mortar
Use of pasta water A little added, tossed off the heatA few spoonfuls added at the end to loosen, more if neededNever heated; thinned with a little water only if neededNot specified - the emphasis is on releasing aroma with steam instead2 ladlefuls added to loosenA big splash of reserved water, plus more as neededA little reserved cooking water added, tossed off the heatNot specified
Noodles and accompanying ingredients Not specifiedLinguine 160g plus potato and green beans (trenette is the traditional pasta)Not specified (no noodle given in the source)Linguine 90g, combined with potato, okra, and boiled octopus1.8mm, 200g (2 servings), with bacon and potatoEnough sauce for about 400g of pastaNot specified (also mentions the Ligurian tradition of adding potato and green beans)Not specified (sauce-only recipe)
Source check Source verifiedSource verifiedSource verifiedPartly unverifiedPartly unverifiedSource verifiedSource verifiedSource verified
Vincenzo's Plate Parmigiano only, no mortar, quick method
Amount and handling of basil
60g (a large bunch)
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Pine nuts 10g (0.4oz)
Amount and preparation of garlic
1 clove
Cheese type and ratio
Parmigiano Reggiano 3 tbsp (1.05oz) only
Amount of olive oil
EVOO, 5-6 tbsp total (3-4 in the base + 2 to finish)
Mortar or machine
Blender (no mortar)
Use of pasta water
A little added, tossed off the heat
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
Not specified
Source
Source verified
Pasta Grammar Mortar-and-pestle only: garlic, then pine nuts, then basil
Amount and handling of basil
1oz (30g), added a little at a time in the mortar
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Pine nuts 10g (1 tbsp)
Amount and preparation of garlic
3 cloves (chopped)
Cheese type and ratio
Parmigiano Reggiano 40g (1.5oz) only
Amount of olive oil
EVOO 30g (2 tbsp)
Mortar or machine
Mortar and pestle required; food processor only as a last resort (blade and bowl frozen)
Use of pasta water
A few spoonfuls added at the end to loosen, more if needed
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
Linguine 160g plus potato and green beans (trenette is the traditional pasta)
Source
Source verified
GialloZafferano The orthodox ratio, from the World Pesto Championship organizer
Amount and handling of basil
70g (Basilico Genovese DOP recommended)
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Pine nuts 30g (1oz)
Amount and preparation of garlic
2 cloves (germ removed, halved)
Cheese type and ratio
Parmigiano 50g + pecorino (Fiore Sardo) 30g, roughly a 5:3 ratio
Amount of olive oil
EVOO 70g (1/3 cup)
Mortar or machine
Marble mortar and wooden pestle (a food processor on pulse can substitute)
Use of pasta water
Never heated; thinned with a little water only if needed
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
Not specified (no noodle given in the source)
Source
Source verified
Fabio Cold bowl: oil, then pine nuts, then basil
Amount and handling of basil
1 pack (the kind sold at a supermarket)
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Pine nuts 15g (roasted)
Amount and preparation of garlic
1/4 clove (boiled alongside the pasta to soften, then mashed in)
Cheese type and ratio
Grana Padano, added to taste (no fixed amount)
Amount of olive oil
EVOO = double the basil's volume, plus more to finish
Mortar or machine
Chilled bowl and blender
Use of pasta water
Not specified - the emphasis is on releasing aroma with steam instead
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
Linguine 90g, combined with potato, okra, and boiled octopus
Source
Partly unverified
Ryuji Shiso substitute, with bacon and potato
Amount and handling of basil
Not used (substituted with 20 shiso leaves)
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Not used (substituted with 4 tbsp ground sesame)
Amount and preparation of garlic
Grated garlic 5-10g
Cheese type and ratio
Cheddar cheese 40g (mixed cheese blend acceptable)
Amount of olive oil
Olive oil 3 tbsp plus more to finish
Mortar or machine
Bun Bun Chopper (a food-processor-type appliance)
Use of pasta water
2 ladlefuls added to loosen
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
1.8mm, 200g (2 servings), with bacon and potato
Source
Partly unverified
J. Kenji López-Alt Loose measuring, Parmesan-only simplicity
Amount and handling of basil
A few cups, added a handful at a time
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Pine nuts 1/4 cup (toasting optional)
Amount and preparation of garlic
A few cloves (no exact count given)
Cheese type and ratio
Parmesan 1oz, no pecorino used
Amount of olive oil
EVOO 1/2 cup
Mortar or machine
Mortar and pestle (a 2-cup-plus capacity recommended)
Use of pasta water
A big splash of reserved water, plus more as needed
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
Enough sauce for about 400g of pasta
Source
Source verified
Serious Eats (Daniel Gritzer) The tested two-cheese ratio
Amount and handling of basil
85g (3oz), washed and left damp, about 4 cups
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Pine nuts about 30g (2 tbsp)
Amount and preparation of garlic
2 medium cloves (10g)
Cheese type and ratio
Parmigiano 21g + pecorino Fiore Sardo 21g, a 1:1 ratio
Amount of olive oil
Mild EVOO 175ml (3/4 cup)
Mortar or machine
Marble mortar and wooden pestle (if using a food processor, switch the order to garlic-cheese-basil)
Use of pasta water
A little reserved cooking water added, tossed off the heat
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
Not specified (also mentions the Ligurian tradition of adding potato and green beans)
Source
Source verified
Chef Jean-Pierre One food processor pass, a choice of three nuts
Amount and handling of basil
2 cups tightly packed (a few leaves reserved for garnish)
Pine nuts or substitute nuts
Blanched almonds 1/2 cup (pine nuts or macadamia nuts also acceptable)
Amount and preparation of garlic
6 cloves (peeled and chopped, no other prep)
Cheese type and ratio
Parmigiano Reggiano 1/2 cup only
Amount of olive oil
EVOO 1 cup
Mortar or machine
Food processor only, no mortar
Use of pasta water
Not specified
Noodles and accompanying ingredients
Not specified (sauce-only recipe)
Source
Source verified

Remix the steps (optional)

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1 Pasta & boiling Brand, thickness, salt, water volume, cooking time
2 Base Fat and the main ingredient: rendering, infusing
3 Sauce & emulsion Where you toss, heat level, how much pasta water
4 Finish Cheese, pepper, finishing oil, plating

The map of schools: where the heat is managed

For Pesto alla Genovese, the fork in the road is how you emulsify and heat

Toss over direct heat

The pan stays on the flame and your hands manage the temperature. Fast, but it takes feel.

  • No styles here

Indirect heat

Bain-marie, steam, double boiler or a hand blender. Repeatable, at the cost of one extra step.

Off the heat

Emulsify after killing the flame, or in a bowl with only the pasta’s residual heat. Hard to get wrong.

What to serve after this

In an Italian meal the primo (pasta) is followed by a secondo (main course)

Liguria 55 min

Branzino al forno alla ligure

Branzino al forno alla ligure

A whole European sea bass (branzino/spigola) roasted in the oven, a Mediterranean coastal staple. The Ligurian version is distinctive for a bed of potatoes, cherry tomatoes, Taggiasca olives, and pine nuts roasted underneath the fish, so the vegetables soak up the fish's fat and the whole thing becomes a single self-contained dish.

Pairs with: Pesto alla Genovese / Spaghetti alle vongole / Pasta al Limone

Both are regional dishes of Liguria, so the pairing connects naturally as dishes from the same home ground.

Piedmont 90 min

Vitello tonnato

Vitello tonnato

Thin slices of chilled veal are topped with a sauce built on tuna, anchovy and capers. It's served both as an antipasto and as a secondo. The name originally meant "veal prepared as if it were tuna," and tuna itself is not believed to have been part of the dish until the late 19th century; the mayonnaise-based version now common spread in the 20th century.

Pairs with: Tajarin al tartufo bianco / Pasta al Limone / Pesto alla Genovese

A connection of place. Since medieval times, Piedmont has been linked to Liguria through the anchovy and salt trade, and this anchovy-based dish sits within that same current (La Cucina Italiana). It can follow on from a light Ligurian primo without raising the weight.

Gear and ingredients for this dish

Purchase suggestions for preparing this dish, including tools and ingredients.