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Ragù alla bolognese

Emilia-Romagna · No.03 / 103

Ragù alla bolognese

Ragù alla bolognese, 8 ways

A dish built on time — browning the meat, then simmering it. Schools diverge on how the ground meat is browned, the use of wine and milk, and how long it simmers.

Ryuji Fabio Tomomi Ogura Chef Ropia (Akifumi Kobayashi) Yoshimi Hidaka Vincenzo's Plate Pasta Grammar J. Kenji López-Alt
90 min · Difficulty ●●●○○ · 7videos

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George Yoshida[You'll Never Go Back to Ground Meat] Steak BologneseWatch on YouTube ↗

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RyujiRecipe developer Source verified

250g beef-pork seared like steak, minimal aromatics, 45 min

  • Declares "Bolognese isn't a sauce, it's a meat dish," putting the meat center stage
  • Keeps aromatics to a minimum (no carrot or celery)
  • Explicitly distinguishes it from meat sauce ("not a meat sauce")
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In the chef’s words
  • The "Bolognese Beyond the Ultimate" spinoff is designed to "deliberately make it in one pan, letting the noodles soak up the meat's umami" source

References: [1] [2]

FabioItalian cook (freelance chef; YouTube channel) Partly unverified

30-min red wine marinade, seared, cut large; tagliatelle

  • Unique step of marinating the ground meat in red wine before searing
  • Sears the meat without breaking it up and cuts it into large pieces before adding it back, for chunkiness
  • 5cc meat garum (nikubishio) as a secret ingredient
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In the chef’s words
  • To create meat chunkiness, the seared meat is kept intact and cut into large pieces before being added back source
  • Pasta water is 1% salt, and the tagliatelle boils for 4 minutes source

References: [1]

Tomomi OguraOwner-chef of Regalo in Sangubashi Source verified

White ragù, no tomato: floured beef, wine + water, 20-30 min

  • A tomato-free "ragù bianco"
  • Dusts the ground meat in flour before sautéing
  • Positions prosciutto/pancetta as a "stock," substitutable with chicken bouillon powder
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In the chef’s words
  • Prosciutto/pancetta plays a "stock role," so chicken bouillon powder works fine if you don't have any source

References: [1]

Chef Ropia (Akifumi Kobayashi)After Ristorante Floria in Nagano (2013 to May 2023) and Ponte Carbo in Aoyama, Tokyo (August 2023 to March 2025), he cooked in Italy as the resident chef at the Japanese Consulate-General in Milan. Now back in Japan and preparing to reopen Ristorante Floria in Nagano in autumn 2026 Source verified

300g beef seared whole, 1:1:1 veg, 10g sugar, fresh pasta

  • Spells out a 1:1:1 ratio for the aromatics
  • Sears the ground beef in one block (a chunky orientation shared with Fabio)
  • Explains how the flour ratio shapes the fresh pasta's texture
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In the chef’s words
  • A 1:1:1 ratio of vegetables (onion, carrot, celery) is recommended source
  • Searing the ground beef in one block brings out fragrance source

References: [1]

Source is a recipe page (no video)
Yoshimi HidakaOwner-chef of Ristorante ACQUA PAZZA in Minami-Aoyama Partly unverified

Sear the meat, sweeten the veg; red wine deglaze, 20-30 min

  • Splits the roles: "sear the meat, but coax sweetness slowly from the vegetables"
  • Explicitly deglazes with red wine
  • Quantifies the boiling basics — water volume, 1% salt, undercooking slightly
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In the chef’s words
  • Sear the meat, but sauté the vegetables slowly to bring out their sweetness source

References: [1]

Vincenzo's PlateItalian-born, Sydney-based YouTube channel Partly unverified

1kg meat, 150g pancetta, 3h covered + 1h open, whole milk

  • Lists 6 "critical steps" (don't color the soffritto / render the pancetta first / don't develop a deep sear on the meat / cook off the wine completely / 3 hours covered + 1 hour uncovered / finish with whole milk)
  • Asserts flat egg pasta is correct, noting spaghetti bolognese isn't served in Bologna
  • Plays up the authenticity angle with a 4-6 hour long simmer
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In the chef’s words
  • Milk tames the tomato's acidity and gives a smooth mouthfeel — this is traditional (though also noted as "optional") source

References: [1] [2] [3]

Source is a recipe page (no video)
Pasta GrammarA husband-and-wife channel: Eva, from Calabria, Italy, and Harper, from the US Partly unverified

450g beef + 450g pork, no milk, 1/2 cup water, 2.5-3 hours

  • Cites Artusi's original 1891 transcribed recipe as containing almost no tomato
  • Explains the milk-is-unnecessary argument through changes in meat quality
  • Claims alignment with the Italian Academy of Cuisine's (Accademia Italiana della Cucina) official recipe update from April 2023
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In the chef’s words
  • Artusi's original 1891 transcribed recipe contained almost no tomato source
  • No one in Bologna would think of serving ragù over spaghetti — fresh egg pasta, especially tagliatelle, is best source

References: [1]

J. Kenji López-AltFormer Managing Culinary Director at Serious Eats and now its Chief Culinary Advisor, New York Times columnist (two-time James Beard Award winner) Partly unverified

Beef, pork, lamb + gelatin stock, liver purée, 3-4h at 149°C

  • Uses 3 tbsp of powdered gelatin to build a "luxurious texture"
  • Artificially engineers umami with chicken liver purée and fish sauce
  • The only recipe to include lamb. "Not developing a sear" is the opposite of the sear-focused camp
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In the chef’s words
  • Using powdered gelatin gives the sauce a "luxurious texture" source
  • Mixing in blended chicken liver adds a supporting, earthy meaty umami source

References: [1] [2]

Compared on 11 axes

Figures are transcribed as written in each video or recipe page

AXIS Ryuji Fabio Tomomi Ogura Chef Ropia (Akifumi Kobayashi) Yoshimi Hidaka Vincenzo's Plate Pasta Grammar J. Kenji López-Alt
Pasta, portion, and boiling 1.8mm spaghetti, 100ghand-cut tagliatelle, 4 min1.9mm, 70g, 11 minhomemade fresh pasta, 7-8mm wide, 2 min1.6mm, 160g for 2, 1-2 min under package timetagliatelle or other egg pastafresh tagliatellenot specified
Salt in the pasta water not stated1%1.5%not stated1% (10g per 1L)to tasteto tastenot stated
Meat type and browning 250g ground beef-pork + 50g bacon, seared like a steak300g ground meat, marinated in red wine → seared and cut into large pieces150g ground beef (dusted in flour) + prosciutto/pancetta300g ground beef, seared in a block200g coarse ground beef-pork, seared500g beef + 500g pork + 150g pancetta450g beef + 450g pork + 20g fresh pancetta454g each beef, pork, lamb + 227g pancetta + 227g chicken liver
Aromatic vegetables 1/2 onion + 2 cloves garlic (no carrot or celery)150g onion, 100g celery, 50g carrot120g onion, 100g celeryonion, carrot, celery at 1:1:1onion, carrot, celery, 1/2 each (low heat 10-15 min)2 celery, 2 carrot, 1 large onion (not blended)1/4 large carrot, 1/4 large onion, 1 celery1 large onion, 2 carrot, 4 celery, 4 garlic, sage
Wine and milk 200cc red wine (no milk)300cc red wine (doubles as the marinade)white wine + water (no milk)90cc red wine (no milk)1/3 cup red wine (no milk)1 cup red wine + 1 cup whole milk235ml wine (white or red) — no milk2 cups wine + 1L gelatin-enriched stock + whole milk + heavy cream
Tomato 1/2 can whole tomatoes100cc passatanone1 can tomatoes + 10g sugar2 cups canned tomato (strained)2 tbsp paste + 500ml passata + 800g whole2 tbsp paste + 800g whole800g whole (blended)
Simmer time until liquid reduces (45 min total)not stated20-30 min on low heat60 min total20-30 min3 hours covered + 1 hour uncovered2.5-3+ hoursoven at 149°C, uncovered, 3-4 hours
Tossing method 5g butter + grated cheese + pasta waterpasta water + mineral waterwarm on low heat → toss on high heattossed onlytossed onlyfinished with whole milkunified through the long simmerheavy cream + Parmesan added at the end
Heat level seared over medium to high heatseared, pulled out, then added backmedium → low → highseared → deglazeda gentle simmermedium-low → medium → medium-high → lowlow heatno color developed
Finishing grated cheese optional10g Parmigiano + extra virgin olive oilolive oil, Parmigiano, black pepperParmigianoParmesanwhole milk, Parmigianonone (nutmeg)2 tbsp fish sauce, 85g Parmesan
Total time 45 minnot stated50 min60 min30 min4.5-5.75 hours3-4 hoursabout 5 hours
Source check Source verifiedPartly unverifiedSource verifiedSource verifiedPartly unverifiedPartly unverifiedPartly unverifiedPartly unverified
Ryuji 250g beef-pork seared like steak, minimal aromatics, 45 min
Pasta, portion, and boiling
1.8mm spaghetti, 100g
Salt in the pasta water
not stated
Meat type and browning
250g ground beef-pork + 50g bacon, seared like a steak
Aromatic vegetables
1/2 onion + 2 cloves garlic (no carrot or celery)
Wine and milk
200cc red wine (no milk)
Tomato
1/2 can whole tomatoes
Simmer time
until liquid reduces (45 min total)
Tossing method
5g butter + grated cheese + pasta water
Heat level
seared over medium to high heat
Finishing
grated cheese optional
Total time
45 min
Source
Source verified
Fabio 30-min red wine marinade, seared, cut large; tagliatelle
Pasta, portion, and boiling
hand-cut tagliatelle, 4 min
Salt in the pasta water
1%
Meat type and browning
300g ground meat, marinated in red wine → seared and cut into large pieces
Aromatic vegetables
150g onion, 100g celery, 50g carrot
Wine and milk
300cc red wine (doubles as the marinade)
Tomato
100cc passata
Simmer time
not stated
Tossing method
pasta water + mineral water
Heat level
seared, pulled out, then added back
Finishing
10g Parmigiano + extra virgin olive oil
Total time
not stated
Source
Partly unverified
Tomomi Ogura White ragù, no tomato: floured beef, wine + water, 20-30 min
Pasta, portion, and boiling
1.9mm, 70g, 11 min
Salt in the pasta water
1.5%
Meat type and browning
150g ground beef (dusted in flour) + prosciutto/pancetta
Aromatic vegetables
120g onion, 100g celery
Wine and milk
white wine + water (no milk)
Tomato
none
Simmer time
20-30 min on low heat
Tossing method
warm on low heat → toss on high heat
Heat level
medium → low → high
Finishing
olive oil, Parmigiano, black pepper
Total time
50 min
Source
Source verified
Chef Ropia (Akifumi Kobayashi) 300g beef seared whole, 1:1:1 veg, 10g sugar, fresh pasta
Pasta, portion, and boiling
homemade fresh pasta, 7-8mm wide, 2 min
Salt in the pasta water
not stated
Meat type and browning
300g ground beef, seared in a block
Aromatic vegetables
onion, carrot, celery at 1:1:1
Wine and milk
90cc red wine (no milk)
Tomato
1 can tomatoes + 10g sugar
Simmer time
60 min total
Tossing method
tossed only
Heat level
seared → deglazed
Finishing
Parmigiano
Total time
60 min
Source
Source verified
Yoshimi Hidaka Sear the meat, sweeten the veg; red wine deglaze, 20-30 min
Pasta, portion, and boiling
1.6mm, 160g for 2, 1-2 min under package time
Salt in the pasta water
1% (10g per 1L)
Meat type and browning
200g coarse ground beef-pork, seared
Aromatic vegetables
onion, carrot, celery, 1/2 each (low heat 10-15 min)
Wine and milk
1/3 cup red wine (no milk)
Tomato
2 cups canned tomato (strained)
Simmer time
20-30 min
Tossing method
tossed only
Heat level
a gentle simmer
Finishing
Parmesan
Total time
30 min
Source
Partly unverified
Vincenzo's Plate 1kg meat, 150g pancetta, 3h covered + 1h open, whole milk
Pasta, portion, and boiling
tagliatelle or other egg pasta
Salt in the pasta water
to taste
Meat type and browning
500g beef + 500g pork + 150g pancetta
Aromatic vegetables
2 celery, 2 carrot, 1 large onion (not blended)
Wine and milk
1 cup red wine + 1 cup whole milk
Tomato
2 tbsp paste + 500ml passata + 800g whole
Simmer time
3 hours covered + 1 hour uncovered
Tossing method
finished with whole milk
Heat level
medium-low → medium → medium-high → low
Finishing
whole milk, Parmigiano
Total time
4.5-5.75 hours
Source
Partly unverified
Pasta Grammar 450g beef + 450g pork, no milk, 1/2 cup water, 2.5-3 hours
Pasta, portion, and boiling
fresh tagliatelle
Salt in the pasta water
to taste
Meat type and browning
450g beef + 450g pork + 20g fresh pancetta
Aromatic vegetables
1/4 large carrot, 1/4 large onion, 1 celery
Wine and milk
235ml wine (white or red) — no milk
Tomato
2 tbsp paste + 800g whole
Simmer time
2.5-3+ hours
Tossing method
unified through the long simmer
Heat level
low heat
Finishing
none (nutmeg)
Total time
3-4 hours
Source
Partly unverified
J. Kenji López-Alt Beef, pork, lamb + gelatin stock, liver purée, 3-4h at 149°C
Pasta, portion, and boiling
not specified
Salt in the pasta water
not stated
Meat type and browning
454g each beef, pork, lamb + 227g pancetta + 227g chicken liver
Aromatic vegetables
1 large onion, 2 carrot, 4 celery, 4 garlic, sage
Wine and milk
2 cups wine + 1L gelatin-enriched stock + whole milk + heavy cream
Tomato
800g whole (blended)
Simmer time
oven at 149°C, uncovered, 3-4 hours
Tossing method
heavy cream + Parmesan added at the end
Heat level
no color developed
Finishing
2 tbsp fish sauce, 85g Parmesan
Total time
about 5 hours
Source
Partly unverified

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1 Pasta & boiling Brand, thickness, salt, water volume, cooking time
2 Base Fat and the main ingredient: rendering, infusing
3 Sauce & emulsion Where you toss, heat level, how much pasta water
4 Finish Cheese, pepper, finishing oil, plating

The map of schools: where the heat is managed

For Ragù alla bolognese, the fork in the road is how you emulsify and heat

Toss over direct heat

The pan stays on the flame and your hands manage the temperature. Fast, but it takes feel.

  • No styles here

Indirect heat

Bain-marie, steam, double boiler or a hand blender. Repeatable, at the cost of one extra step.

  • No styles here

Off the heat

Emulsify after killing the flame, or in a bowl with only the pasta’s residual heat. Hard to get wrong.

Salt in the pasta waterActual values from 3 styles. Equal values stack vertically
0.9%1.1%1.3%1.4%1.6%Fabio: 1%FYoshimi Hidaka: 1% (10g per 1L)YHTomomi Ogura: 1.5%TO
Total timeActual values from 4 styles. Equal values stack vertically
26.4 min35.7 min45 min54.3 min63.6 minYoshimi Hidaka: 30 minYHRyuji: 45 minRTomomi Ogura: 50 minTOChef Ropia (Akifumi Kobayashi): 60 minCR
Pasta thicknessActual values from 3 styles. Equal values stack vertically
1.6mm1.7mm1.8mm1.8mm1.9mmYoshimi Hidaka: 1.6mm, 160g for 2, 1-2 min under package timeYHRyuji: 1.8mm spaghetti, 100gRTomomi Ogura: 1.9mm, 70g, 11 minTO

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